Zongzi (Sticky Rice Dumpling): Cantonese, Sweet or Hokkien Bak Chang

Zongzi, or rice dumplings, is an essential cultural dish for the Chinese. Its significance comes from the Dragon boat festival and the values it symbolises. 

There are many different rice dumplings, and they typically contain meat fillings. Our guide will show you how to make the most popular types focusing on Hokkien Bak Change, as well as a vegan version and chicken filling option too.

How to Make Zongzi, Chinese Sticky Rice Dumplings (Hokkien Bak Chang with Chicken)

Jump to:

• What is Zongzi?
• Regional Variations
• Cantonese 
• Northern Chinese
• Hokkien Bak Chang
• Other types
• Zongzi fillings
• Making your own zongzi (Hokkien Bak Chang)
• Making sweet Joong or Zong
• Zongzi calories
• Preparing Bamboo Leaves
• How to wrap Zongzi
• Zongzi without leaves
• How to cook zongzi
• Reducing cooking time
• Cooking Tips
• How to eat zongzi
• Zongzi Recipe | Easy Hokkien Bak Chang
• Cantonese Zongzi | Savoury Sticky Rice Dumpling
• Sweet Zongzi with Red Bean Paste
• History of Zongzi
• Dragon Boat Festival

What is Zongzi?

Zongzi is sticky glutinous rice stuffed with various types of filling​​. Traditionally, it is moulded into a pyramid or elongated cylindrical shape and wrapped with Argy-wormwood leaves and five-colour strings. However, nowadays, you will see bamboo or reed leaves being used along with strong cotton string.

Once ready, you have to steam or boil the zong to cook it. Depending on your preference, you can choose to eat the sticky rice dumpling while still hot, or only eat them once it has cooled down.

Chinese people may sometimes call the snack simply ‘zong’ or 'joong' which also means 'rice dumplings'. The sticky rice dumpling also has another name. It's known in the Hokkien dialect as bak chang.

Zongzi is a symbolic Dragon Boat Festival food that represents filial piety. The festival is on the fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar. Moreover, the Chinese diaspora worldwide celebrates this festival by eating Chinese sticky rice dumplings during the festival.

Regional Variations

Zongzi differs in shape and taste from one place to another across China. There are mainly two tastes: sweet and savoury. Nowadays, people even make them with mixed sweet and savoury fillings.

You will find the sticky glutinous rice usually shaped in an elongated cylindrical, but the shape varies according to the region as well. It also varies across Asia, and you will see different types of rice dumplings in Taiwan, Singapore, and even Japan.

Varieties in Mainland China

In Jiaxing, located in mainland China, you will find the rice dumplings stuffed with pork and sometimes salted duck egg yolk. In Jia Zong, the rice dumplings are smaller and stickier as glutinous rice balls packed tightly together are used to enclose the fillings. 

The glutinous rice wrap is treated with alkaline water to achieve a pale yellow colour in the Northwest area. Due to the sweet bean paste filling, the Northerners eat these during dessert with light syrup. 

You will find a Cantonese version of the zongzi in the South. When you slice the dumpling open, you will find a rich filling of marinated meat, such as pork belly and duck meat, with other ingredients like green bean paste, mushrooms, dried scallops, and salted egg yolk.

There are also different variations of the Cantonese version in Xiamen, Quanzhou. Over there, the locals made the dumplings with braised pork belly, mushrooms, and shrimps. 

In the Southwest region of Sichuan, the locals like to eat spicy food. So they fill rice dumplings with Sichuan peppercorns, chilli powder, Sichuan salt, and a little preserved pork wrapped into four-cornered dumplings. The dumplings are cooked and then roasted.

Finally, when you visit the capital of Beijing, you will see the zongzi there are sweet with dates and bean paste, sometimes preserved fruit. The people in Beijing like to have their rice dumplings cold. 

Cantonese 

The Canton version of zongzi is what you'll get in Guangdong province, southern China. While it's eaten in the South of China, you'll also find it in Singapore, where there is a sizeable Chinese majority. 

The Cantonese create rice dumplings that are pyramid-shaped and smaller than you'll find in northern China. It is uniquely recognisable from other types of dumplings as you'll find savoury fillings of fresh meat, Chinese smoked sausages, red bean paste and egg yolk. 

You can also adapt the rice dumpling to make vegetarian zongzi. First, you use brown rice to substitute the white glutinous rice. Then, swap out the meat for yam and mushrooms to achieve a similar savoury relish. If you want to have a crunchier bite, include brown oats. Soy sauce or vegetarian oyster sauce increases the umami flavour. 

Northern Chinese

In the northern part of China, zongzi is wrapped in bamboo leaves and filled with sweet ingredients such as red bean paste, red dates, and jujubes. It is typically eaten in northern China and north of Taiwan. 

These sweet rice dumplings are unique for their sticky, springy rice texture. The glutinous rice is soaked in an alkaline solution before cooking, giving it a slightly bouncy consistency. In Taiwan, the Taiwanese may add salted duck egg, shrimp, peanuts and mushrooms to the filling. 

Generally, these sweet rice dumplings are already vegetarian since there is no meat. You can add goji berries for added sweetness. To make vegan zongzi or vegetarian rice dumplings in this way, you can try adding squash as a substitute for egg. 

This sweet version of bak chang is very popular compared to the savoury ones.

Hokkien Bak Chang

Hokkien Bak Chang is easily identifiable as its glutinous rice grains are brown coloured, a result of stirfrying with five-spice powder and dark soy sauce before it is packed tightly with its fillings.

It is the Zongzi type you'll generally see eaten in mainland China and wherever the Hokkien dialect group is. Therefore, it is most popular in Fujian China as well as Malaysia and Singapore.

Inside, you'll find marinated pork and chestnuts, adding a slightly sweet tinge to the dumplings. The unique ingredient is dried shrimps and mushrooms. The result is a spicy, savoury bite. 

To recreate a vegetarian version, it's simple. Use these substitutes for the meat:

1. Mix mane mushrooms and shiitake mushrooms.
2. Throw in chestnuts and spices like cinnamon and star anise.
3. Stir the vegetable stock, dark soy sauce, five-spice powder and pepper powder together for the seasoning. 

To replace the dried shrimp, you can combine textured vegetable protein with garlic and mushroom stems. Use vegan oyster sauce for the umami flavour.

Other types

Apart from sweet and savoury Zongzi, there are also different variations. People have been creative in infusing glutinous rice with additional elements to create a delectable texture and mixing up ingredients to get an aromatic flavour. Here are the different types of dumplings you might see around the world:

• Alkaline bak chang
• Vegetarian Sago Dumpling 
• Nyonya chang
• Jiangsu dumplings
• Teochew bak chang
• Hakka bak chang
• Hainanese bak chang

The variations are numerous, so you might see more that are not on our list. 

Zongzi fillings

The glutinous rice inside goes well with almost any filling. So, what's inside is very much dependent on whether you like it sweet or savoury. Some of the more popular fillings include:

• Black beans
• Red bean paste
• Porkbelly
• Mushroom
• Salt egg
• Chestnut
• Shrimps

You can tinkle with different zongzi fillings if you wrap your dumplings to find the right mix that appeals to your tastebuds. 

Making your own zongzi (Hokkien Bak Chang)

You can include almost anything inside your zongzi fillings. However, here is what we usually put into our savoury Hokkien bak chang. Use these as guidelines to make your own Chinese sticky rice dumplings.

Glutinous rice

You will need to soak your glutinous rice for at least 6 hours or overnight. Our family's hokkien bak chang will also add black beans. If you do want to add black beans, you will need to boil these beforehand for about 30 minutes or until soft.

Meat

Traditionally we use pork belly in our zongzi recipe. Pork belly is the best because the pork fat helps to add flavour to the other fillings and glutinous rice. However, if you want it to be less fattening and oily, you can choose lean chunks of meat with some fat in between.

When we make bak chang for our Muslim friends, we've also experimented with using chicken meat. Although it's not the traditional method, you can also use chicken thighs to make halal zongzi. However, your joong won't be as flavourful compared to using pork belly.

Mushrooms

Shitake mushrooms are an excellent addition to get a smoky flavour. Usually, we will stir-fry these with garlic, oyster sauce, and dark and light soy sauce to give them more flavour.

Chestnut

In our family, we love adding chestnuts to our Hokkien ba chang. The best is to use frozen or cooked chestnuts as these are easier to cook and absorb the flavour when we stir fry them.

You can also use fresh chestnuts but just remember these might need an extra 5-10 minutes to soften when you stir fry them.

Salted egg yolk

This ingredient adds texture and umami to your zongzi. Salted duck egg yolk is the best. Purchase whole cured duck eggs at the Asian market and use the yolks. You can buy vacuum-packed salty duck egg yolks on Amazon as well. 

If you can find roasted and peeled chestnuts, they're a great ingredient to add to replace mung beans and duck eggs.

The combination of pork, mushrooms and salted egg yolk with chestnuts is popular. 

When filling your zongzi, leaving some space between your ingredients is essential. Especially if you include pork, space the meat out and have some rice between them.

As you pack your rice dumpling, try not to be so forceful with your rice as it will expand once cooked. The filling will become chewier if you use too much force. Therefore, try not to overpack your dumpling with fillings. 

Making sweet Joong or Zong

If you prefer a sweet one, pack your bak chang with red bean paste, or you can even try more exotic ingredients like sweet potato. 

Vegetarian zongzi

If you need to make a vegetarian version, use brown rice for the glutinous rice. Add instant oats to shiitake mushroom. To substitute the meat, use half a yam. You can also include chestnuts and shallots for an added crunch. 

Vegan zongzi

For vegan rice dumplings, you can try dried shiitake mushrooms, dried, peeled mung beans and some mock meat. If you prefer your dumpling to be chewier, go ahead and include peanuts, chickpeas and kabocha (squash). For both vegetarian and vegan options, use vegetarian stock and vegan soy sauce for the seasoning. 

Zongzi calories

An average Zongzi that is filled with meat has around 350 calories if you steam them, while the pan-fried ones are about 400 calories. If you are eating those stuffed with just vegetables, they're about 300 calories a piece.

Preparing Bamboo Leaves

You can use bamboo leaves to wrap zongzi. They are the best if you get fresh leaves since it is aromatic and soft. However, they are hard to find overseas. So, instead, you will need to rehydrate dried bamboo leaves before using them for wrapping.

To prepare the bamboo leaves for wrapping, you need to boil them. First, soak the leaves in warm water for five minutes before scrubbing them thoroughly in cold water. 

Boil them for 30 minutes and then soak them in a pot overnight. You can add some vegetable oil to the water. This overnight prep prevents the glutinous rice from sticking onto the leaves when wrapping the filling later. Once the leaves are dark green, you can use them.

If you're short on time, you can also just add these to cold water and let it boil. Once boiled, you can let it cool before wiping them clean with a towel or paper cloth. Our family also doesn't like to use vegetable oil for health reasons. However, for a better presentation, feel free to use it.

We love to trim off the excess edges and hard stems too. This usually helps us at the wrapping stage.

Sometimes, you will find low-quality bamboo leaves which will have small tears and rigged edges on the side. In this case, you will want to use 2 leaves instead of 1 to avoid the fillings from spilling over at the wrapping or boiling stage.

To do so, take the leaf with the most tears and place it on top of the leaf with the least amount the tears. This will make sure the most damaged leaf will be inside and create a stronger layer.

We also recommend beginners wrap with 2 leaves instead of one as this will be sturdier.

How to wrap Zongzi

Triangular fold

You can wrap zongzi in several ways. We prefer to use a triangular fold.

1. You overlap 1-2 large bamboo leaves and fold them together at ⅓ the way to form a cone.
2. Then place your filling in the cone.
3. Flip the other end of the bamboo leaf over and cover the rice thoroughly.
4. Then fold all the leaves along the edge of a triangle before tying the dumplings with some cotton string.

Rectangular fold

The next way is to use a rectangular fold. You will have to take two leaves and place them flat on the table.

1. Fold the leaves in half and press them with your hands. You should have an elongated rectangular shape. Pinch the long envelope with your hands.
2. Fill the leaves with glutinous rice but do not put too much. Leave a space with your fingers and fold the seal of the topmost leaves down.
3. Compress the rectangular fold and tie the zongzi with twine. 

No wrap

If you prefer to create a rice dumpling that does not require wrapping, you can also place your glutinous rice and fillings on your bamboo leaves. This will save you a lot of time. However, since the leaves also add an aromatic flavour to the final dish, you miss out on the subtle earthy, nutty taste profile that bamboo imparts to the rice dumpling. 

Other wrapping styles

You may also find that there are other methods of wrapping bak chang, for example:

• Pentagon
• Tetrahedral
• Elongated cone

Zongzi without leaves

Your rice dumplings will have more flavour if they are wrapped in bamboo leaves. However, if you can not find bamboo leaves, you can make zongzi without leaves. While it is not the traditional wrapping method, you can place your rice dumpling fillings in a bowl to steam instead.

How to cook zongzi

You can either steam or boil your zongzi. In our family, we like to boil our Chinese sticky rice dumplings. For 6 portions of joong, we add 2-3 tablespoons of salt to the water when we boil our sticky rice dumplings. This is to help the joong get lose less flavour in the cooking process.

To ensure your dumpling is well cooked, you need to put your rice dumpling in boiling water and simmer on high heat for 2-3 hours. Make sure that the water submerges the dumplings and top up with boiling water when the water reduces.

This way, the dumpling will be cooked through to the inner core. When we tried this, we also found that the aroma of the leaves penetrated through. In addition, the rice will not stick to the leaves when you open them up. That is how you know that your dumplings are ready to serve.

Reducing cooking time

To reduce cooking time for your zongzi, here are some tips that you should keep in mind. First, if you can use a pressure cooker, it's the best equipment to boil your bak chang. You will get a delicious rice dumpling in a short time.

Another reason to get a pressure cooker is so that you can cook your glutinous rice in the cooker without soaking it for hours or overnight. Without a pressure cooker, you will have to soak your glutinous rice for at least 6 hours.

Cooking Tips

Zongzi wrapping is a skill that you have to master. It takes years of nimble fingerwork before you get faster and better at it. However, here are some tricks you can use to make your first few rice dumplings presentable.

How to prepare ingredients

The first is to ensure that your bamboo leaves are well-soaked and flexible enough so you can quickly wrap your glutinous rice and fillings. Next, to make it quicker to cook, you need to soak your rice first if you are not using a pressure cooker. 

You can also line a bowl with bamboo leaves followed by layers of your ingredients. Then freeze the mixture. The freezing will break down the rice grains and make your bak chang easier to cook.

Flavour combinations

To make your bak chang flavourful, choose the right ingredients. Savoury pork belly adds lip-smacking umami flavour without making the entire dish too greasy. We highly recommend chestnuts as they add a nice crunch and contrast to the meat.

If you prefer sweet zongzi, use dates and sweet bean paste. Sweet versions are better if not so many ingredients are mixed together. Keep it simple to highlight the main sweet flavour.

How to eat zongzi

To eat a zongzi, you need a plate and a pair of scissors. Cut the twine to unwrap the leaves so you can reveal your rice dumplings. Then you can either use chopsticks or a fork to dig into your dumplings.

You can certainly share them with your family members if the filling is substantial. If you have the savoury ones, make sure they are steamy hot. Sweet dumplings, however, are best enjoyed at room temperature or slightly warmer. 

Eat the savoury ones with soy sauce and the sweet ones with crystal sugar. Since rice dumplings are very filling, they go well with a nice hot cup of Chinese tea to prevent indigestion.

You can eat the zongzi off the leaves without using a plate. But you can throw away the leaves after eating. The leaves used to wrap rice dumplings are usually chosen for their aroma and distinctive flavours. 

The leaves are not meant for consumption. Some dumpling makers use fresh bamboo leaves, and some use dried leaves. So, since you do not know how it is prepared, it is best not to consume them.

If you have wrapped the rice dumplings on your own, we still recommend you throw the leaves away, even if you've steamed them thoroughly. The leaves harden when wrapping the rice dumplings and taste unpleasant if you try to eat them. 

If you have leftovers, freeze the zongzi in the freezer to keep them for six months. When ready to eat them, steam the dumplings with boiling water for about 10 minutes to eat. 

History of Zongzi

The history of zongzi is both romantic and tragic. The Chinese people eat these dumplings during the Dragon Boat Festival to memorialise Qu Yuan. He was a famous Chinese poet who lived 2300 years ago in the State of Chu during the Warring States Period.

In remembrance of Qu Yuan

Qu Yuan was a versatile government official, and the ordinary people respected him for his wise counsel.

However, the King did not like that he was direct, and some jealous officials badmouthed him. The King exiled Qu Yuan and banished him to the remote countryside. Qu Yuan helplessly watched the gradual downfall of Chu. He grieved that he could no longer serve his people.

To articulate his love of his motherland, he began to compose beautiful patriotic poems. He swore to die with the country, and he fulfilled his promise when the kingdom of Chu collapsed. Heartbroken, Qu Yuan plunged himself into the Miluo River.

A symbol of filial piety

Many people threw zongzi into the river to prevent the fish from eating his body. The Chinese people value their bodies to protect their parents' heritage, so keeping the body intact is a way to show filial piety to one's parents. Therefore, eating rice dumplings became synonymous with filial piety.

Many ancient Chinese also believe that there was another world for a person's soul, and the only way to come back from death is to preserve the body. Hence, it would be highly ominous if fish ate Qu Yuan's body.

As for the material of the leaves and strings used to wrap the rice dumplings, one variation of the story goes like this. Qu Yuan appeared in a fisherman's dream, saying a flood dragon was in the river.

The spirit of Qu Yuan told the fisherman that the dragon feared Argy-wormwood leaves and five-colour strings. 

The leaves and strings would protect his body as long as the fishermen added those unique materials. As a result, you will see the dumplings usually wrapped in Argy-wormwood leaves and five-colour strings.

Eating Zongzi has become a Chinese symbol representing patriotism, selflessness, and righteousness. 

When families celebrate the festival and enjoy the rice dumplings, parents tell the story of Qu Yuan to children. In this way, it helps to remind future generations of important virtues. 

Dragon Boat Festival

We usually see Zongzi eaten as a Dragon Boat Festival food. There are a few different stories about how the Dragon Boat Festival connected with dragon boat racing and rice dumplings. 

Dragon Boat Racing

The first reason is that traditional dragon boat racing in China coincides with the 5th day of the 5th Chinese lunar month. As the summer solstice occurs around 21 June, the Chinese refer to the Dragonboat festival as "Duan Wu Jie", or the double fifth day. 

During this festival, dragon boat racing begins to worship the river dragon. On this day, you will see dragon boat races in many cities with a Chinese community. The watercraft is usually painted and made to resemble a mighty-looking dragon. A crew with paddles powers the boat. 

The legend goes that people believed that the river dragon controlled rainfall. They had to worship him during the summer solstice to have a good harvest. In addition, the legend also represents the heritage of dragon worship deeply rooted in Chinese society.

Story of Qu Yuan

The second story is about Qu Yuan, the patriotic poet who drowned himself in a river when his kingdom collapsed. The locals decided to paddle out on boats to scare the fish away and recover his body. 

To mourn him, they cast Zongzi rice dumplings when Qu Yuan drowned. This action is so that the fish would eat the dumplings and not his body. 

Since the ancient Chinese believed that they needed to keep his body intact so that the spirit of Qu Yuan could reincarnate, they were in a hurry to recover his body quickly before the fish ate it. Future generations continued this practice of dragon boat racing to signify the values which Qu Yuan embodied.

Dragon Worship

The third reason is to do with the dragon worship itself. The Chinese have always associated the mythical dragon with auspicious powers. When Qu Yuan jumped into the river, some say that Zongzi became a way to keep the flood dragon from eating his body.

Others say it was a gift for the flood dragon, a powerful god of the seas and rivers, to protect his body. Because of this reverence for dragons, the tradition of racing boats and eating rice dumplings eventually became related. 

Nowadays, people eat rice dumplings daily. However, you will also see people praying to their ancestors at another festival known as Ching Ming with bak chang. 

Ching Ming, also known as Tomb-Sweeping Festival, offers traditional food while burning joss sticks for prayers to their deceased ancestors. This festival is about paying respect to one's ancestors. So, since Zongzi is known to stand for the values of filial piety, it is also often used as prayer food.

While cooking zongzi may take a lot of time, the final results are worth it when you look at your handiwork. If you want to learn more about Asian recipes, follow us on Instagram @honestfoodtalks! 

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Looking for other traditional Chinese treats to make? Check out our easy home recipes on how to make moon cake, tang yuan dumplings and longevity noodles.